Rough and Ready: A History of Cowboy Boots by Elizabeth Semmelhack

Join us for a conversation with Elizabeth Semmelhack's newest book Rough and Ready: A History of Cowboy Boots, a transformative compilation of iconic narratives, interviews, and images that showcase the evolution of the cowboy boot and how its been shaped by American culture. The discussion will be followed by a signing.

PLEASE NOTE: RSVPs are encouraged but not required. Seating is limited and will be first come, first served. Doors open at 5:30 pm.

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A definitive history that tracks cowboy boots from cattle trails to contemporary rodeo, revealing an American icon whose craftsmanship continues to shape national identity.
From cowboy boots’ humble origins to their elevation as cultural icons, this far-ranging volume chronicles how their distinctive designs and makers have shaped and been shaped by American culture.
Engaging narratives, insightful interviews, and vibrant images showcase the evolution through five transformative eras: “Real” explores multicultural origins and the authentic cowboys who wore them; “Rodeo” examines Western mythmaking through Wild West shows, early film, and dude ranches; “Rhinestone” delves into country western music, Nudie Cohn’s designs, and the shifting archetypes from Gene Autry’s moral code to John Wayne’s tougher persona; “Right” investigates the boots’ emergence as luxury commodities during the Reagan years and Urban Cowboy phenomenon; and “Reclaimed” presents contemporary reinterpretations from the Western-inspired fashion of Beyoncé and Pharrell Williams to modern bootmakers.
Complementing the authoritative foundation are thoughtful interviews that enrich the historical analysis: an Indigenous voice essay provides cultural perspective, Nudie Cohn’s origin story offers industry context, and conversations with both traditional craftsmen and innovative makers demonstrate how the cowboy boot continues to evolve while honoring its heritage.

As Director and Senior Curator at the Bata Shoe Museum, Elizabeth Semmelhack applies her extensive cultural art history background to guiding the museum mission forward and exploring the multiple roles and meanings of footwear through innovative and engaging exhibitions. With over 30 exhibitions curated, Semmelhack’s most recent exhibition is Rough and Ready: A True History of the Cowboy Boot. Other exhibitions Semmelhack has curated include: Art/Wear: Sneakers x Artists (2024), Exhibit A: Investigating Crime & Footwear (2024), In Bloom: Flowers and Footwear (2023), Obsessed: How Shoes Became Objects of Desire (2023), Future Now: Virtual Sneakers to Cutting-Edge Kicks (2022), All Dolled Up: Fashioning Cultural Expectations (2021), The Great Divide: Footwear in the Age of Enlightenment (2020), WANT: Desire, Design and Depression Era Footwear (2019), Standing Tall: The Curious History of Men in Heels (2015), Fashion Victims: The Pleasures and Perils of Dress in the 19th Century (2014), Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture (2013), Roger Vivier: Process to Perfection (2012), On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels (2009), Beauty, Identity, Pride: Native North American Footwear (2007), Icons of Elegance: The Most Influential Shoe Designers of the 20th Century (2005), Beads, Buckles and Bows: Four Hundred Years of Embellished Footwear (2004), The Perfect Pair : Wedding Shoe Stories (2002) and Heights of Fashion: A History of the Elevated Foot (2001). Out of the Box : The Rise of Sneaker Culture was expanded into a blockbuster travelling exhibition in partnership with the American Federation of the Arts and was displayed in several US venues, and travelled across the US and to Australia in 2015-2017.

Named by FASHION Magazine as one of the world’s top five game-changing fashion curators, Semmelhack has been featured in articles and interviews in National Geographic, Vogue, Elle, InStyle, W Magazine, Women’s Wear Daily, Wall Street Journal, Forbes Magazine, the New Yorker Magazine, GQ Magazine, L'Officiel, South China Morning Post, Los Angeles Times, Washington Post, The National Post, The Toronto Star, The Globe & Mail and many others. She has also appeared on numerous television and radio programmes including NBC’s Today Show and ConanO’Brien Show, and in documentaries including Unbanned: The Legend of Air Jordan I (2018), The History of Cool. MSNBC (2018), Abstract: The Art of Design. “Tinker Hatfield” episode. Netflix (2017), and God Save My Shoes (2011).

Semmelhack’s award-winning publications include 30 articles and chapters as well as numerous books and catalogs including: Rough & Ready: A History of the Cowboy Boot (2026), Roger Vivier, Heritage and Imagination (2026), Future Now: Virtual Sneakers to Cutting-Edge Kicks (2022), The World at Your Feet: Bata Shoe Museum (2020), Collab: Sneakers x Culture (2019), Christian Dior by Roger Vivier (2019), Shoes: The Meaning of Style (2017), Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture (2015), Standing Tall: The Curious History of Men in Heels (2015), Fashion Victims: The Pleasures and Perils of Dress in the 19th Century with co-curator Dr.Alison Matthews David (2014), Roger Vivier: Process to Perfection (2012), On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels (2009), Heights of Fashion: A History of the Elevated Shoe (2008), and Icons of Elegance (2005).

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