2025 Green County Fair Monroe WI
Schedule
Sun, 20 Jul, 2025 at 05:00 pm
UTC-05:00Location
Green County Fairgrounds | Monroe, WI
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845 Demolition Derby SeasonAll Rules and General Information can be found below.
Start Time 5pm
Pit Gate and Inspections open 1pm
Inspection ends at 4pm
Drivers Meeting 4:30pm
General Admission $10 each person other than Driver participating in show must pay to access grounds
Pit Passes $25
Driver Entry and Pass $75
Kids Power Wheels ages 3-10 Free
Classes and Payouts
Semi Stock Fullsize
1st $5000+ Trophy
2nd $2500+Trophy
3rd $1000+Trophy
4th $500
5th $250
**Mad Dog 6ft trophy plus $2,000**
$500 and $250 for another additional mad dog honorable mentions
Stock Compact/Midsize
1st $1200 + Trophy
2nd $600+ Trophy
3rd $300+ Trophy
Mini Van/small trucks/Suv
1st $1200 + Trophy
2nd $600 + Trophy
3rd $300 + Trophy
Don’t have a car yourself to enter??? There will be raffle tickets sold before and during the event to win a chance to drive in the semi stock full size class!! All money raised from raffle car is put towards prize purse and trophies.
*All prize $ is guaranteed with possibility to increase with sponsorship and what we get from raffle car.*
Wanting to be a sponsor or have question about the event? Please Contact Jeremy Gutzmer at 815-291-4332 call or text please leave voicemail if no answer
*We will try and have one run and done for all classes. But in the situation where we have an overwhelming number of entries in classes we will run larger quick run heats to W**d out some cars and keep down time at a minimum. Example would be say 40 entries in a class we would do 2 20 car heats take half with possible consi heat. You will be allowed to make repairs after heats but you do at your own risk. If you’re not ready when it’s time for the feature we will not wait around!! It’s for simple fixes and only to keep the down time to a minimum and maintain flow of the show.
All class rules are below or can be found on the 845 Demolition Derby Group here on Facebook.
2025 Semi Stock Fullsize Rules
**We will be actively drilling and scoping frames. It’s not our jobs as inspectors to build your car to the rules and catch everything illegal. Just because you may have gotten through inspection without getting caught don’t make it ok!! It’s not shame on the inspection crew for missing it. It’s shame one you as the builder for breaking the rules!! We do work with cars from other rule sets to run our shows and keep competition on a level playing field. That don’t mean build how you want to and it’s ok. Call and ask questions if you think it’s questionable.**
The rules and/or regulations set forth herein are designed to provide for the orderly conduct of racing events and to establish minimum acceptable requirements for such events. These rules shall govern the condition of all events, and by participating in these events, all participants are deemed to have complied with these rules. NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM PUBLICATIONS OF OR COMPLIANCE WITH THESE RULES AND OR REGULATIONS. They are intended as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to a participant, spectator, or official.
The race director shall be empowered to permit reasonable and appropriate deviation from any of the specifications herein or impose any further restrictions that in his/her opinion does not alter the minimum acceptable requirements. NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM SUCH ALTERATION OF SPECIFICATIONS. Any interpretation or deviation of these rules is left to the discretion of the officials. Their decision is final.
These are guidelines to follow. We will use our experience and discretion to keep all cars on a level playing field. Not everybody builds the same but any deliberate breaking of rules or pushing of the rules will just get your car inspected harder!!
Everybody needs to read and RE-READ these rules.
You’re allowed only 2 passes through inspection line to correct your car to these rules.
If you are found to be too built for these rules, you will be given 2 options.
A. CUT OR REMOVE ILLEGAL PARTS.
B. LOAD ON TRAILER AND GO HOME.
Either way you will NOT RECEIVE A REFUND.
C .Photos of repairs or what you are asking do help. Don’t try and word questions to find a grey area or manipulate the rules. If we don’t like it we will make you cut it. Rust repair must call and clear with me and I’ll tell you how to fix it. If you show up without pre approval of the fix you will either cut it off or load it on the trailer!!
All rules questions please call or text Jeremy Gutzmer 815-291-4332
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL!!!
Please read carefully. If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection, absolutely no refunds!!! All rules will be followed or you will not run! If it does not say it in the rules – don’t just assume you can do it. CALL FIRST!!!!
GENERAL
1. NO REFUNDS WILL BE MADE DUE TO FAILURE TO MEET REGULATIONS!
2. Top five in feature must actively compete at end, no driving yourself on barriers or dirt berms. Failure to comply could result in complete restart with all feature qualifiers actively competing again or disqualification.
3.No reinforcements allowed other than specified in these rules. Any metal added to reinforce the car is illegal. You will only be allowed 2 trips thru the inspection line.
4. NO PAINTING, UNDERCOATING, OILING OR GREASING OF FRAMES. YOU WILL NOT BE INSPECTED. THIS INCLUDES PAINTING OF THE FRAME FLAT BLACK.
5. NO HITTING IN DRIVERS DOOR, but no using driver door as a shield. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door as a defense repeatedly you will be disqualified. This will be at the judges’ discretion.
6. NO hot-rodding in the pits! Keep it at an idle.
7. Any open door or second fire will cause disqualification. If in a heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. In the feature, you will be disqualified.
8. You must make AGGRESSIVE contact every 60 seconds.
9. Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
10. IF YOU THINK SOMEONE IS SANDBAGGING, HIT THEIR CAR WITH YOUR CAR ON THE TRACK.
11. Winning cars plus three out of the money must remain on track until released by officials, or will not be paid prize money. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. Cars found illegal will be stripped of all prize money for that event. Just because it wasn’t caught through in tech don’t make it legal!! We are human and not everything is caught. You as the builder are responsible for building a legal car not the inspection crew.
12. Any questions or controversies will be discussed at the drivers meeting
13. YOU MUST HAVE AT LEAST A 12” X 12” ROOF SIGN WITH YOUR CAR NUMBER ON IT.
14. All drivers must pick up trophies and earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit. They will not be available after that date.
15. All persons MUST sign entry form, insurance waiver, release form, pay entry fees, and purchase pit pass before entering pit area.
16. Most shows will be serving alcoholic beverages at the sites so please no carry ins. Please support the events by purchasing them there. With that being said please be responsible. Prefer drivers not to drink until after the event. Being disorderly and belligerent will not be tolerated and those parties who are we be asked to leave with no refund.
17. No harassing of the judges will be allowed at any time by drivers, passengers, crewmembers or spectators. Failure to abide by this rule, the driver will forfeit all money and all involved will be escorted from premises. You as a driver are held accountable for your pit people as well.
18. Registration forms will be filled out the day of the event. All drivers must be at least 16 years of age; drivers 16 and 17 must have a parent or legal guardian sign a minor release form
19. All drivers must wear approved helmets, eye protection either safety glasses or visor on helmet, long pants, and long sleeve shirt preferably . Also all drivers and riders must wear working seat belts
20. - Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
21. A driver that receives a black flag for an intentional door hit will be disqualified from all competition for that night. A driver that receives a black flag for sandbagging or 1 fire in the interior of the car will be disqualified. 2 fires on the exterior will be disqualified, if in heat you may go to consolation. This will be at the judges’ discretion.
22. All drivers must attend drivers’ meeting prior to derby
23.All cars must be removed from derby site by 12:00 noon the following day unless otherwise stated at drivers meeting. Failure to do this will result in cars being removed by and becoming property of Fair Board.
24.DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T
Build Rules
1. DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice!
2.Dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame; we will not even inspect your car.
3. Any year car except 1973 and older Imperials,
El caminos, ambulances, Hearses or convertibles
4. Body components must be direct bolt up only. Must be factory hardware
5. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
6. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris
7. No wedge trunks, protruding frame rails, no frame shaping, forming or folding. Only minor pre bending of frame is acceptable.
8. - Front Windshield Bar is MANDATORY and is limited to two 2” wide x 1/4" thick straps or two 3/8” chains or two strands of 9 wire. May be welded or bolted or both. 6 inches on roof and 6 inches on firewall for attachment.
9.- Can hardline or beat quarter panels only. No inside, roof or door hard lines . Rear quarters must remain up right. 50% of trunk lid can be tucked. You may dish the trunk. Quarter panels can be beat in. No folding quarters to create a doubled effect. Goes for beating the over quarter under over too the frame rail. You do this you will cur the doubled area out!!
*See trunk section for remaining instructions*
HOOD
MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION! So don’t come to inspection line with hood bolted down…. Allowed 6 places to hold down hood
1. Can replace front 2 body mounts with 2-1” all thread through the hood, with 4” washers. No sleeving threaded rod
A. Can have up to a 6” or less spacer between core support and frame. Can be welded to frame or sheet metal not both. Spacer must stop at the bottom side of core support 6” max means no larger than a 6” space between the support and frame. So don’t come through with a 6” spacer and a threaded rod cranked up to create a larger space. We have mad a lot of people change this so don’t think we won’t let you run if you can fix this problem!!
2. Other 4 spots being 2”x2” angel iron 4” long ¼” thick back to back 2 on each side of hood, with two 3/8 bolts or one 1/2 inch bolt or up to 3/4 threaded rods attached to sheet metal only or 4 spots of 9 wire
3. Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
4.Hood must have two (2) holes, at least SIX (6) inches in diameter on each side of carburetor – Not directly on top of carburetor. 6 -3/8 bolts max can used to bolt each cut out.
5. IF HOOD IS REMOVED, EITHER FAN BLADE MUST BE REMOVED OR FAN BELT MUST BE CUT.
TRUNK—
1. Can replace any 2 of the 4 rear body mounts with up to 1” all thread through the trunk lid with 4” washers. 3 nuts per rod, Bottom nut and washer must be inside of the frame, or welded to side of frame only 4” weld total. If you weld to frame you can only change body bolts to stock size,
2. Plus ( 4) 2”x2” angel iron 4” long ¼” thick back to back with two 1/2” bolts in each or 4 3” wide by 4” long plates, or 4 spots of 9 wire.
3.Can beat trunk lid and rear quarters but quarter panels must remain vertical. You can cut quarter panels and fold them but still must be atleast 50% vertical can remove speaker deck. Don’t slide trunk lid forward in doing so!! If speaker deck is removed front drip edge of trunk must be atleast 6 inches above the deck sheetmetal.
Do not make the trunk a wedge or ramp for other cars to drive on you may tuck or sedagon wagon roofs down but must be able to visibly see there’s no added plate or hidden reinforcement. No threaded rod through wagon roof 9 wire only. Trunk lid must have 2- 4”x6” inspection holes cut in. If can’t be inspected you will be asked to make hole
WAGON TAILGATE: 9 wire only
DOORS
1. Drivers door may be welded solid. You may weld outside only. All other doors can be welded 12” max per vertical seam and 6” each horizontal or 4 place of 9 wire or up to 3/8 chain each door seam
You may also plate outside of drivers door with up to a 1/4 plate for drivers protection
2. Can have two spots per door of 9 wire wrapped from door window opening around frame.
FRAMES
1. NO welding on frames or frame seams. Only welding is stated below and in bumper sections!!
2. All cars can have 2 4”x6”plates on frame. Any more plates will be completely removed or you won’t run. Not a X or boxing out additional plates. This will be strictly enforced.. NO WELDING AFTER INSPECTION OR HEATS NO WELDING THESE PLATES ON. IF ADDITIONAL PLATES ARE FOUND AFTER INSPECTION – NO MONEY WILL PAID OUT. If you have a rusty frame that needs repair please call and ill tell you how you will be allowed to fix.
3.If changing front stub, cut 3 inches behind second cross member bolt hole. When replacing, can overlap 2 ½”, able to weld both sides, but no adding extra metal. Must be of the same make and model.
If restubbing one side of the frame, you are allowed to cut and fit the new frame flush and weld one pass all the way around (butt – fit – weld). Must be of the same make and model. Meaning no hybrid frames... Example old iron caddy stub on wagon, caddy stub on Chevy impala if you’re not sure if you can chances are you can’t or ask before you do it!!
5.Metric style gms are allowed a 12” rear hump plate.
6. 03 newer fords can’t shorten front frame rails. Older cars can be cut flush with front body mount hole at core support. Don’t cut or relocate this mount. Don’t cut frame and mount bumper behind the mount. Don’t relocate the mount. That’s an automatic load.
No cutting and pitching of frames. You can get enough pull down by using pressure from core support spacer to make it happen!!
BODYMOUNTS
1. Body mounts and spacers to remain in place. You may replace stock bolts with 1/2 size bolt. Chrysler may use stock size equivalent. Must be a 3/4” space between body and frame. Can be a rubber spacer. If changed/replaced you must cut away the factory sheet metal for inspection and use a 3”x3” 1/4” washer top and bottom. Must be inside the frame not below.
- SUSPENSION and STEERING
1. All front suspension must remain stock car type product. ZERO aftermarket parts no Chevy truck lift spindles. What you can do is mentioned below!!
2. You may use two 2” wide 1/4” thick straps to weld either upper or lower an arms to frame to gain height. Only 2” allowed to be welded to an arm and 2” on the frame. Do not extend them out farther than the a arm zone. If we feel your trying to gain a advantage by welding them farther onto the frame you will cut them and use working suspension.
3. Rear control arms must be stock. Can lengthen or shorten them with a 2 inch overlap. Can bolt or weld back together without using any extra material only.
4. Can use front coils springs in rear of coil cars. Leaf sprung cars may use 4 leaf spring clamps 2” wide using up to 1/2” bolts. Two bolts per clamp
A. Leaf springs to have stock stager and thickness. 7 leafs max in stack. No converting coils to leafs and vice versa
B. See Drivetrain section for additional rearend mounting rules.
5. You may run a 3/8 chain max behind the rear wheels from frame to frame. No extra mounting component can be used to mount this. Just wrap around frame and bolt or run bolt through inside of frame. Do not create a pin when doing this.
6. Factory or aftermarket steering column ok
No hydro steering. Stock style steering boxes
7. If you’re running a 03 or newer. You may make a steel cradle that uses existing bolt holes in the aluminum cradle. These are to be a basic setup similar to a grey area, budde, smith metal works demo products type cradle. Not to reinforce the frame!!! If youre not familiar with this types of mounting cradle please message me I’ll send you some pictures.
B. Can install older style steering box and steering components. Must be bolted in a stock manner through one layer of the frame. Stock size bolts only!! Like everything else anything overboard will be cut or you won’t run!! If you don’t swap to stock style box must use factory style rack. No larger cylinders and no hydro steer.
C. You may have a 3” wide 1/4 plate or 3x3 angle iron between front frame rail on 03s for lower radiator support. It can only be held on with 4 one inch welds total. Or you can install a older core support from a pre 03. Don’t show up with a big piece of square tubing welded between rails. You will cut it!!
D. 03 newer fords must use factory strut mounts. No converting to pre 03 control arms. You may run a strut spacer to gain ride height.
8. You are allowed any type oem ball joint. But must bolt in. No aftermarket or screw in ball joints unless it came factory on that car which in this case would be older mopar products. You can tack ball joints with two 1” welds to help hold them in place.
9. Tie rods must be factory or oem replacement. No aftermarket tie rods!! Can weld the tie rod sleeve to help keep them together. No added extra material. No oversized sleeves!! We know what factory ones look like!!
- DRIVETRAIN
1. ANY drivetrain allowed with the following criteria.
2. You may swap engines, i.e... Chevy in a Ford. Factory location only
A. ANY ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION MAY BE USED IN ANY CAR, BUT MUST BE MOUNTED IN A STOCK POSITION. ON A V-BLOCK MOTOR, FRONT SPARK PLUGS MUST BE EVEN OR IN FRONT OF UPPER BALL JOINT; ON IN-LINE MOTORS, NUMBER TWO (2) SPARK PLUG MUST BE EVEN OR IN FRONT OF UPPER BALL JOINT.
3. You may have a basic lower engine cradle with front plate to save on engine block abuse. You may use a aftermarket mount. If you have pulley protector must remove sway bar.
4. Only the engine mounts may be welded to cradle only. You may use two 1/2" thick 4x4 spacers to raise engine from steering components. Have up to a 3/8 chain to help hold engine in place with only one link welded or bolted to engine crossmember.
5. Transmissions may have a aftermarket bell housing, steel or aluminum. No aftermarket trans cases!! Stock cross members only or you may use a 2”x 2”x 1/4” hollow tube with 3x3 angle iron 6”long welded only to inside frame rail to mount your stock cross member. No other welding. Can use #9 wire or 3/8” chain or smaller to wrap around tailshaft and cross member. No trans braces and no steel tail shafts if running a aftermarket bell. If you have a stock case you can run a skeleton type brace.
Crossmember must be mounted within 6” of the original mounting area.
6.Any passenger type or 8 lug truck rearend is allowed. Bracing of rearend is ok but can not be used as reinforcement or kicker in rear frame area. Must be 5” away fron frame on fresh cars on pre rans we will use our judgement on the distance. Don’t chain it down tight trying to create a kicker to frame and think it’s ok.
A. Can use aftermarket kit to change a watts style to 4 link setup. Lower mount bracket can only be up to a 3”x4” square tube or less to mount. Or use a older style mount with minimal welding to mount. No overly large watts brackets allowed and do not touch frame humps with them. No welding them solid to frame or rearend!!Anything here we feel is to much will be cut!
B. 98 newer fords can only use one method of holding rearend in place. Either standard 4 link or the watts. You can’t use both.
C. Stock rearend control arms. Can lengthen or shorten for pinion angle. Overlap 2” max and weld or bolted only to hold them. No added metal!!
D. Can use a up to a 3/8 chain one loop around frame to hold rearend in place or up to a 1 inch treaded rod welded to rearend that goes up to package tray coil spring hole. Only nut top side so if enough force is applied car will push down. Cut body sheet metal away so it connect as an extra body mount.
7. Aftermarket Floor shifters,headers,gas and brake pedals and transmission coolers allowed. No engine oil coolers
8.-No radiator protectors. Factory condensers only up front or you can have up to a 1/4 plate or mesh material bolted with 4 3/8 bolts or 4 1” welds. It can only be 1” bigger than stock area.
A. May have two up to 1/2 threaded rods behind radiator to help keep in place.
9.No radibarrels!!
CAGE AND HALO BAR:
1. You must have a 4 point cage. Two cross bars, one in dash area, and one behind driver’s seat that must be no more than 18" from back of driver seat. Two side bars cannot go past dash bar or more than 18" behind driver seat. Get your tape measure out. If your more than 18" you will have to cut.
A. May have 4 down drops to body or frame. Two per side!! Must stay within the inside front door seams. Top of frame only!! No wrapping frame with down drop. You break this rule they will be cut out no exceptions!! These are for driver protection not frame reinforcement.
2. Halo bar allowed must be straight up and down Attached to side or rear seat bar. Must be in the door area. Not through a extra rear window.
3. Gas tank protector may be welded to back bar. Only 32” and can be mounted tight to back seat area. This bar must be at 8”off the floor, measured from bottom rear seat area and must stay inside of interior of rear driver’s compartment. Don’t mount gas tank to floor and protector. It’s one or the other.
Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car. No jungle gym type cages. Gussets are ok just don’t go overboard!! If you go overboard you will be cutting. You can run bars off the side bar of the rollover bar back to gas tank protector but cannot extend to roof. Rear loop on gas tank protector must be atleast 8” from roof. Don’t tie the gussets or loop to roof in any way!! You will cut it if you do!!
Gas Tanks and Batteries
1.Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor. 2 batteries max
2.NO PLASTIC TANKS, unless in a 1/4” metal box.mounted in center of the back side area.
A. Battery and gas tank must be tight when coming through inspection line or you won’t be inspected.
BUMPERS:
1. Any factory or homemade bumper allowed. Any bumper with sharp points we feel is unsafe will be cut or you won’t run no exceptions. Nothing more than what a Chrysler Pointy will be accepted. That’s 13” at the point spanning down over atleast a 32” area. If you have questions call and ask!! No making a wedge or ramp rear bumpers!!
2. You may weld front and rear bumper strait to frame/hard nose no added metal. Must have 1” in front of body mount. Do not cut down frame on 03 newer fords.
3. You may weld stock bumper bracket (in factory location) to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper, , in addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame (example Crown Vics).
4. If your car did not come with a shock (example 71 Chevy) you may use a 74-76 CHEVY CANS welded to factory specs OR BOP bracket bolted/ mounted in stock location with stock bolts. Don’t put long bumper brackets on crown Vic’s or rear bumper brackets on front of cars. This rules is only for cars that didn’t come factory with a shock to reinforce frame.
5. You may weld 2 4x4 plates per side to help hold bumpers on. We don’t want them on the track.
6.-Bumper height 24” max from bottom of bumper and 14” minimum from bottom of bumper
TIRES:
Brakes MUST work.
1. Any tires are allowed black and round. Must be a rubber make up not full steel up to 16”
2. All wheels can have multi centers installed. Inside beadlocks only. Must be safe!! If we feel it’s not you will remove them.
3 .Valve stem protectors are allowed.
4. Liquid in tires allowed. Studs and screws in rims to hold tires in place are allowed
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
These are guidelines of what you are allowed to do in this class. Don’t get carried away. If you have questions or think you might be doing something your not supposed to do please call first!! Just because it may not say it in the rules don’t mean you can do it!!
2025 Stock Compact/Midsize Rules
**We will be actively drilling and scoping frames. It’s not our jobs as inspectors to build your car to the rules and catch everything illegal. Just because you may have gotten through inspection without getting caught don’t make it ok!! It’s not shame on the inspection crew for missing it. It’s shame one you as the builder for breaking the rules!! We do work with cars from other rule sets to run our shows and keep competition on a level playing field. That don’t mean build how you want to and it’s ok. Call and ask questions if you think it’s questionable.**
The rules and/or regulations set forth herein are designed to provide for the orderly conduct of racing events and to establish minimum acceptable requirements for such events. These rules shall govern the condition of all events, and by participating in these events, all participants are deemed to have complied with these rules. NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM PUBLICATIONS OF OR COMPLIANCE WITH THESE RULES AND OR REGULATIONS. They are intended as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to a participant, spectator, or official.
The race director shall be empowered to permit reasonable and appropriate deviation from any of the specifications herein or impose any further restrictions that in his/her opinion does not alter the minimum acceptable requirements. NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM SUCH ALTERATION OF SPECIFICATIONS. Any interpretation or deviation of these rules is left to the discretion of the officials. Their decision is final.
The rules are pretty basic for this class!! This class is meant to be a quick and easy build!! A build where someone don’t have to put weeks into putting it together to go out and have some fun!! If it don’t say you can do it in the rules you chances are you cant!! So just because it don’t mention it in the rules don’t mean go ahead anyway and do it. If you have a question please call or message first!!
1. Must be powered by four or six cylinder engine
2. Wheelbase must be 111 inches or less fwd or 108 rwd. No full frame cars NO EXCEPTIONS!
A. NO moving/bending a stock or aftermarket component to shorten wheel base.
3. No four-wheel drive or full framed vehicles.
4. MANDATORY! All four/six cylinder cars must have a cage. Bar behind seat minimum. Must be thick walled pipe or tube. No exhaust tubing or thinner material. Safety is priority. 4pt cage is recommended. Can have a gas tank protector but must be atleast 4 inches from rear sheetmetal and only either be bolted to floor 32 inch wide area or come straight off the seat bar. It’s to keep gas tank from getting hit by sheetmetal not to reinforce your car!! Go overboard and you will cut!!
5. Stock gas tank MUST be removed. A METAL BOAT TANK OR HOMEMADE METAL TANK must be mounted in rear seat area and bolted down with metal straps. NO PLASTIC TANKS!!!
A. Battery and gas tank must be tight when coming through inspection line or you won’t be inspected.
6. All lines under car must be steel lines or if running rubber lines they must be inside of the car.
7. All glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights and taillights, must be removed before reaching racetrack. Rolling down windows is not permitted. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. Rear seat of sedan must be removed, top and bottom. On station wagons all seats and decking must be removed. Station wagons must be emptied to floorboards. All cars must be swept clean, both drivers compartment and trunk. No spare tires, broken glass, or trash, etc., allowed in cars.
8. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes. MANDATORY!!
9.You can carry a fire extinguisher, but it must be mounted securely and free of movement.
10.Windshield area must have one wire or up to 3/8 chain, 3” wide strap or 2”x2” angle iron for drivers protection. Maximum of two is permitted.
11.Hoods must have a 12x12 hole in them in case of fires.
12.Hoods and Trunks can have 4 places of number 9 wire, up to 3/8 chain to hold shut max. Two of the 4 spots can be up to 3/4 threaded rod. Front two rods can go through front body mount but spacer must remain. Trunk lid may be tucked in a single 90 degree bend. Quarter panels must remain upright. Minimum trimming and beating of quarters are allowed. Can pre bend rear of car don’t get carried away where it can’t be properly inspected!!
13.Doors can have two spots per vertical seam of wire or 3/8 chain or 12” of weld. Drivers door can be welded solid
14.You can swap stock bumper with a automotive type bumper. Cannot be any material inside bumper. Stock means stock. You can seam weld the chrome skin to the inner support of bumper. If you don’t have automotive bumper you can have up to a 4”x6” square tubing or up to 4” round pipe. They must be straight pieces nothing creative. You may bolt or weld them in place with no added metal. That means no tubing in the frame. To help hold on you will be allowed to weld 2 4x4 pieces of steel 1/4” max to hold front bumpers on per side. I don’t want to be picking them up off track.
15. You are allowed to have any tire. You must also have stock rims. You may run a weld in center in rim so can bolt multiple style rims on car. You may also run solid forklift tires on rear of vehicle if you like.
16.All suspension components must be stock or oem replacement for that vehicle. No welding or fixing rusted out pieces. For ride height you can clamp your strut. No aftermarket struts!!
17.Rust repair on frame or body. If you have a rusty car you probably should have picked a different car to start off with. But call with and send pics and I’ll give you instructions on how to fix. Don’t expect to fix a whole rail it won’t happen.
18. Will allow people to swap exhaust with aftermarket headers. You may have aftermarket steering column, shifter, gas, brake pedals.
19. You may swap fuel injection out with a carburetor setup but can’t have anything to protect the carb. You chose that setup you take the risk!!
20. Fix it plate rule
Cars can have up to 2-4 inch by 6 inch 1/4 thick max plates on frame to fix bent frames. Must show signs of being bent from previously being run. If not bent you will cut them off. If you cut the plate you lose the part you cut. You're only allowed to bend them and fold them not reconfigure them to cover more than a 4x6 area
This is meant to be easy and fun build for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time and money to compete. Like stated before if it don’t say it in the rules the answer if probably no!! Questions call/text Jeremy 815-291-4332
*With the increasing popularity of this class please be aware the possibility of heats. Don’t be scared by this because it’s only to help keep downtime to a minimum and maintain show flow. Example would be 40 entries and running two heat of 20 and taking 10 per heat. Cars with be impounded until I give go ahead to take them. Then will be giving maybe 10-15 minutes to do quick fixes like fuel, change a tire, or battery for feature. Anymore you risk running out of time and not making the call to start. Like I said it’s to maintain downtime and take a break for drivers. Not to give people with 100 friends in pits or the guy who brought his whole shop to fix car an advantage. You will win it by what you built, luck and skill I the heat and feature.*
2025 MiniVan/suv/mini truck Rules
**We will be actively drilling and scoping frames. It’s not our jobs as inspectors to build your car to the rules and catch everything illegal. Just because you may have gotten through inspection without getting caught don’t make it ok!! It’s not shame on the inspection crew for missing it. It’s shame one you as the builder for breaking the rules!! We do work with cars from other rule sets to run our shows and keep competition on a level playing field. That don’t mean build how you want to and it’s ok. Call and ask questions if you think it’s questionable.**
The rules and/or regulations set forth herein are designed to provide for the orderly conduct of racing events and to establish minimum acceptable requirements for such events. These rules shall govern the condition of all events, and by participating in these events, all participants are deemed to have complied with these rules. NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM PUBLICATIONS OF OR COMPLIANCE WITH THESE RULES AND OR REGULATIONS. They are intended as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to a participant, spectator, or official.
The race director shall be empowered to permit reasonable and appropriate deviation from any of the specifications herein or impose any further restrictions that in his/her opinion does not alter the minimum acceptable requirements. NO EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SAFETY SHALL RESULT FROM SUCH ALTERATION OF SPECIFICATIONS. Any interpretation or deviation of these rules is left to the discretion of the officials. Their decision is final.
The rules are pretty basic for this class!! This class is meant to be a quick and easy build!! A build where someone don’t have to put weeks into putting it together to go out and have some fun!! If it don’t say you can do it in the rules you chances are you cant!! So just because it don’t mention it in the rules don’t mean go ahead anyway and do it. If you have a question please call or message first!!
These are guidelines to follow. We will use our experience and discretion to keep all cars on a level playing field. Not everybody builds the same but any deliberate breaking of rules or pushing of the rules will just get your car inspected harder!!
1. Must be powered by four or six cylinder engine
2. No fullsize trucks, suv, or vans will be allowed.
3. MANDATORY! All cars must have a cage. Bar behind seat minimum. Must be thick walled pipe or tube. No exhaust tubing or thinner material. Safety is priority. 4pt cage is recommended
4. Stock gas tank MUST be removed. A METAL BOAT TANK OR HOMEMADE METAL TANK must be mounted in rear seat area and bolted down with metal straps. NO PLASTIC TANKS!!!
5. Battery and gas tank must be tight when coming through inspection line or you won’t be inspected.
6. All lines under car must be steel lines or if running rubber lines they must be inside of the car.
7. All glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights and taillights, must be removed before reaching racetrack. Rolling down windows is not permitted. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking back. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. No spare tires, broken glass, or trash, etc., allowed in cars.
8. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes. MANDATORY!!
9.You can carry a fire extinguisher, but it must be mounted securely and free of movement.
10.Windshield area must have one wire or up to 3/8 chain, 3” wide strap or 2”x2” angle iron for drivers protection. Maximum of two is permitted.
11.Hoods must have a 12x12 hole in them in case of fires.
12.Hoods and Trunks can have 4 places to hold shut by either up to 3/8 chain, number 9 wire. Two of 4 spots can be 3/4 threaded rod. Front may go through body mount and bolted at bottom of core support
13.Doors can have two spots per vertical seam of wire or 3/8 chain or 12” of weld. Drivers door can be welded solid
14.You can swap stock bumper with automotive type bumper. If you don’t have automotive bumper you can have a aftermarket replica or make your own. No bumper can have a extreme point on them. Contour of bumper must be a 74 chevy front in a aftermarket or loaded form. If stock you can run a Chrysler pointed not loaded.
15. You are allowed to have any tire. Weld in rim centers so can bolt multiple style rims on car or ok. No outer bead locks or full rim guards. You can have up to a 3” lip stiffener. You may also run solid forklift tires on rear of vehicle if you like.
16.All suspension components must be stock or oem replacement for that vehicle. No built struts, homemade tie rods, or changing of any suspension components front or rear period. Oem stock, you may clamp or bolt stuts or an arms to help with ride height. Don’t push this rule because you will cut!
17.Rust repair on frame or body. If you have a rusty car you probably should have picked a different car to start off with. But call me will photos and I’ll give instructions how to fix.
18. Will allow people to swap exhaust with aftermarket headers. Can have aftermarket gas, brake pedals, shifters and steering columns.
This is meant to be easy and fun build for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time and money to compete. Like stated before if it don’t say it in the rules the answer if probably no!! Questions call/text Jeremy 815-291-4332
Pumpkin Fest added rules:
This is for pumpkin fest show only not the fairs.
Each Vehicle Fresh or pre ran are allowed 2-4 inch by 6 inch `/4 thick max plates on vehicle body or frame. if you cut plate you lose the part you cut. Youre only allowed to bend them and fold them not reconfigure them to cover more than a 4x6 area
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Where is it happening?
Green County Fairgrounds, 2600 10th St,Monroe, Wisconsin, United StatesEvent Location & Nearby Stays: